Are you seeking expertise in a specific type of material or gemstone for your jewellery repair or aftercare needs?

Expert jewellery repair depends on identifying the material, gemstone, setting and condition of the piece before any work begins. Gold, platinum, silver, diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls and treated or antique jewellery all respond differently to heat, pressure, chemicals, polishing and cleaning. Steven Charles Quance assesses these characteristics first, then recommends a repair or aftercare method that protects the item’s structure, appearance and, where relevant, its value.

During an assessment, we examine the metal for wear, previous repairs, thinning, cracks, distortion and signs of fatigue. We also check settings, claws, bezels, hinges, catches and solder joints, together with the condition of each stone. This helps determine whether the item can be repaired directly, requires careful dismantling, or should be handled using a lower-risk alternative. If the condition or construction creates a material risk, we explain this before work is authorised.

Precious metals require different repair techniques.

• Gold: Yellow, white and rose gold can vary in alloy composition and colour. Repairs may involve soldering, laser work, rebuilding worn claws, reshaping, sizing or replacing a damaged section. White gold may require refinishing and, where appropriate, re-plating after the repair to restore a consistent surface colour.
• Platinum: Platinum is dense and durable, but it still develops wear and can become distorted or damaged. It generally requires specialist tools and compatible platinum materials. Repairs to platinum settings, wedding rings and fine details must be completed with care to preserve the original proportions and finish.
• Silver: Silver is comparatively softer and may show scratches, dents, thinning or tarnishing more readily. Depending on the problem, it may be polished, reshaped, soldered or rebuilt. Excessive polishing is avoided because it can remove detail and reduce the thickness of the metal.
• Mixed-metal and plated jewellery: Items combining different metals, or using plating over a base metal, need particular care. Heat, polishing or refinishing can affect colour boundaries and surface treatments, so we discuss the most suitable repair method and the expected finish beforehand.

Diamonds are generally robust, but the setting remains vulnerable. A diamond can still chip if it receives a sharp impact, particularly at a pointed culet, girdle or exposed corner. Damage is also more likely where a stone has existing inclusions or has been weakened by a worn setting. Before cleaning or tightening a diamond piece, we inspect the claws, setting edges and surrounding metal. Repair may include claw replacement, setting work, re-tipping, reshaping or removal and resetting of the stone where necessary.

Coloured gemstones need a more individual approach. Sapphires and rubies are relatively hard, but they can still be chipped by impact or damaged by inappropriate heat and pressure. Emeralds often contain natural inclusions and may have been treated, making them particularly unsuitable for some heat, ultrasonic or steam-cleaning processes. Opals, turquoise, coral, amber and other softer or porous materials can be sensitive to heat, solvents, sudden temperature changes and immersion in liquid. We select cleaning, setting and repair methods according to the specific gemstone rather than treating every stone as if it were a diamond.

Some gemstones may also have undergone treatments such as filling, dyeing, coating, irradiation or heat enhancement. These treatments can affect how a stone responds to repair. If the treatment is known or becomes apparent during examination, it is taken into account when recommending work. Where identification is uncertain, further assessment may be advisable before proceeding, particularly if the piece is valuable, antique or being repaired after an impact.

Pearls and other delicate organic materials require especially gentle aftercare. Pearls can be scratched by harder materials and may be affected by perfume, cosmetics, hairspray, household chemicals, prolonged moisture and dry conditions. Repairs may involve restringing, replacing a damaged fitting or checking the security of a pearl mount. Cleaning is normally limited to an appropriate soft cloth or carefully controlled professional treatment; harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaning and steam should not be used unless their suitability has been confirmed.

Antique, vintage and handmade jewellery may need a conservation-led approach rather than a complete return to a new-looking finish. Original solder joints, engraved details, patina, unusual settings and historic alterations can all be significant. We consider whether polishing, reshaping or replacing a component could remove character or affect the integrity of the piece. In some cases, stabilising a weak area and retaining as much original material as possible is preferable to extensive restoration.

When a repair involves heat, stones may need to be removed before work begins. This is commonly considered for vulnerable gemstones, heat-sensitive treatments, heavily included stones and settings where the stone cannot be adequately protected. Removing and resetting a gemstone introduces its own considerations, including the condition of the setting and the possibility that a previously hidden weakness becomes visible. The proposed process and any relevant limitations are explained as part of the consultation.

After repair, suitable finishing is just as important as the structural work. Polishing can reduce visible scratches, but it must be controlled to avoid softening edges, engraving or fine details. Rhodium plating may be appropriate for some white-gold jewellery, while a brushed, satin or hand-finished surface may be more suitable for another piece. We aim to match the finish to the original design or to the finish agreed with you, rather than applying the same treatment to every item.

For jewellery with sentimental, financial or insurance significance, tell us about any known history, previous repairs, treatments, certificates or valuations. Bring any associated documents where available. If a gemstone is loose, a claw has broken, a ring has split or a stone has been exposed to a strong impact, keep the item separate and avoid wearing it until it has been examined. Do not attempt to glue, bend, tighten or clean it with household products, as these actions can complicate the repair or cause further damage.

We will explain the recommended repair, suitable alternatives, expected finish and any risks or limitations before proceeding. If the best option is to preserve the item rather than restore it extensively, or if a replacement component is more appropriate than a repair, this will be discussed clearly. A material-specific assessment ensures that the work is proportionate, technically appropriate and consistent with the jewellery’s design, condition and intended use.