What are the common signs that indicate your jewellery needs professional maintenance?

The common signs that jewellery needs professional maintenance include loose or moving stones, worn claws or settings, damaged clasps, stretched links, thinning metal, bent components and deep scratches. These problems can develop gradually and may not affect the appearance of a piece until the risk of stone loss, breakage or injury is already significant. A professional inspection can identify hidden wear and deal with it before more extensive restoration is required.

Loose or moving stones

A gemstone should sit securely in its setting. If it rattles, shifts when touched, catches on clothing or appears to sit at a different angle, stop wearing the item and arrange an inspection. Movement may indicate that a claw has lifted, a bezel has opened, the setting has become distorted or the surrounding metal has worn thin. Continuing to wear the piece can allow the stone to loosen further or fall out.

Some movement is difficult to detect by eye, particularly in small stones or intricate cluster settings. A jeweller can examine the setting under magnification and check whether the stone, claws and supporting structure remain sound.

Worn, flattened or lifted claws

Claws, also known as prongs, hold many gemstones in place and are exposed to everyday friction. They may become flattened, unusually thin or shorter over time. A claw that catches on knitwear or feels sharp can have lifted away from the stone or developed a damaged edge. A missing claw is an urgent warning sign.

Claw wear is especially important on rings because they are frequently exposed to knocks and contact with hard surfaces. Professional maintenance may involve retipping or replacing individual claws, rebuilding part of the setting or carrying out more comprehensive work where the supporting metal has deteriorated.

Changes to the shape of a ring or setting

A ring that is no longer round, has developed a flat section or feels different on the finger may have been knocked or weakened by wear. Distortion can place uneven pressure on the stone and make the setting less secure. It can also prevent wedding and engagement rings from sitting correctly together.

Do not try to bend a ring back yourself. Correcting the shape without assessing the stone and setting can worsen existing damage. A jeweller can check the overall structure and restore the shape using appropriate tools and techniques.

Thinning metal or visible grooves

Metal gradually wears where jewellery repeatedly rubs against other pieces, clothing, skin or everyday surfaces. Pay particular attention to the base of a ring, the shoulders beside the setting, the edges of a pendant and the areas between links. Noticeable grooves, narrow sections, sharp edges or a translucent-looking area of thin metal indicate that maintenance may be needed.

Wedding rings can become thin at the underside of the band, while bracelets and chains may wear at connecting points. If left unattended, a weak section can split or break. Depending on the condition, a jeweller may strengthen, rebuild or replace the affected area.

Damaged or unreliable clasps

A clasp should close firmly and remain secure during normal movement. Signs of a problem include a clasp that opens unexpectedly, feels loose, does not align properly or requires repeated adjustment. The connecting rings, hinges and safety catches should also be checked, as these parts can wear even when the clasp itself appears intact.

Never rely on a safety chain to compensate for a defective main clasp. It may reduce the chance of complete loss, but it is not a substitute for repairing the primary fastening.

Stretched, stiff or misaligned links

Bracelets and watch bracelets can develop elongated links, gaps between links or sections that no longer move smoothly. A chain may appear thinner at its connecting points or begin to kink rather than drape naturally. These changes can indicate stretched metal, worn connecting pins or damaged joints.

Links that are stiff, bent or misaligned should not be forced. A professional can assess whether they need cleaning, adjustment, replacement or rebuilding. For valuable watches and jewellery, the correct components and finishing methods are important to preserve both function and appearance.

Cracks, chips and changes to gemstones

A chip, crack or newly rough edge on a gemstone requires assessment, even if the stone remains in place. Some gemstones are more vulnerable to impact or internal fractures than others, and damage may extend beneath the surface. A stone that has become cloudy, loose or visibly altered may also need professional attention.

Do not use abrasive products or attempt to polish a damaged gemstone at home. The appropriate treatment depends on the stone, its setting and whether it has been treated or enhanced. A jeweller can advise whether cleaning, resetting, repolishing, repair or replacement is suitable.

Deep scratches, dents or impact damage

Light surface marks are normal on regularly worn jewellery and can often be addressed during professional cleaning and polishing. Deep scratches, dents, splits or sharp raised edges are different. They may indicate that the metal has been significantly struck or displaced and could affect the strength of the piece.

Impact damage should be assessed before the item is polished. Removing metal from a deep mark without first checking the structure can reduce its strength. The repair may instead require reshaping, soldering, rebuilding or a carefully controlled refinish.

Discolouration, movement or damage to personalised details

Discolouration can result from deposits, chemical exposure, worn plating or a reaction between the metal and its environment. Tarnish alone may only require suitable cleaning, but persistent changes should be assessed if they occur alongside pitting, flaking, cracking or thinning.

Engraving, milgrain, hand-finished textures and other personalised details can become shallow or worn through repeated contact. If these features are important to the piece, mention them before any repair or polishing is carried out. Excessive polishing can soften fine details, so maintenance should be planned around preserving the original design.

When to stop wearing the item

• Stop wearing jewellery immediately if a stone is loose, a claw is missing, a ring has split, a clasp will not hold or a component has become sharp.
• Keep the item in a separate, secure container rather than placing it loose with other jewellery.
• Do not glue, squeeze, file or heat the piece at home. These attempts can obscure the damage and make a professional repair more difficult.
• Bring any detached stones or broken parts with the item, if they can be collected safely.

Routine checks can identify problems earlier

Inspect frequently worn jewellery in good light and look for changes in shape, movement, texture, colour and fastening security. Gently touch stones only to check for movement; do not deliberately test claws or settings by pulling them. Professional maintenance is also appropriate after a significant knock, before a major occasion or whenever a piece has not been worn for a long period and its condition is uncertain.

A professional inspection is preferable to relying on appearance alone. It can include checking stones and settings under magnification, testing clasps and hinges, examining areas of metal wear, assessing previous repairs and identifying cleaning methods that are safe for the materials. Addressing small defects promptly helps preserve the jewellery’s structure, finish and personal significance while reducing the likelihood of avoidable loss or more complex repair.