What types of jewellery can be appraised during valuation days?

Most types of jewellery can be appraised during a valuation day, including engagement and wedding rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings, brooches, pendants, cufflinks, loose gemstones, antique and vintage pieces, inherited jewellery and luxury watches. The valuer will assess each item according to its materials, gemstones, craftsmanship, condition, age, provenance and the purpose of the valuation.

Common items suitable for appraisal include:

• Engagement and wedding rings: the precious metal, diamond or other gemstones, setting, condition and any available documentation can be assessed. Matching or redesigned wedding jewellery may also be considered.
• Rings and dress jewellery: this includes signet rings, eternity rings, cocktail rings, gemstone rings and pieces made for everyday or occasional wear.
• Necklaces and pendants: the valuer can examine chains, gemstones, pearls, lockets, crosses and other decorative or sentimental pendants.
• Bracelets and bangles: gold, platinum and silver examples can be appraised, including linked, hinged, tennis, charm and vintage designs.
• Earrings: studs, drops, hoops, clips and mismatched or converted earrings may be assessed, with attention paid to whether stones are original and whether the pair remains complete.
• Brooches, pins and cufflinks: signed, antique, enamelled, gemstone-set and historically significant pieces may require particular attention to construction and provenance.
• Loose gemstones and pearls: diamonds, coloured gemstones and natural or cultured pearls can be examined, although a detailed gemmological report may be recommended where identification or treatment is uncertain.
• Antique, vintage and inherited jewellery: older pieces may be valued using evidence of period, maker, design, construction methods, condition and documented history.
• Luxury watches: mechanical and quartz watches, including Rolex timepieces, can be assessed for model, reference, materials, condition, originality, movement, accompanying papers and service history.

A valuation day may also accommodate jewellery collections rather than individual pieces. For example, an estate may contain a mixture of rings, chains, watches and loose stones. Each item should normally be described separately so that the resulting document is useful for insurance, probate or the division of assets.

The purpose of the valuation affects the assessment and the figure reported. An insurance replacement valuation estimates the cost of replacing an item with an equivalent piece through an appropriate retail channel. A probate valuation generally records an appropriate market value at the relevant date for estate administration. A valuation for family division, divorce or another legal purpose may use a different basis. A likely resale price is not automatically the same as an insurance or probate value, so the intended use should be explained when booking.

For jewellery, the valuer may examine hallmarks, metal fineness, manufacturing quality, gemstone identity, colour, clarity, carat weight, cutting style, wear and previous repairs. They may also look for alterations, replaced stones, damaged settings, stretched chains or missing components, as these can affect the valuation. A maker’s mark, designer signature or credible provenance can be relevant, particularly for antique or collectible pieces.

For watches, the assessment can include the case and bracelet materials, reference and serial details, dial and hands, movement, functionality, originality, condition and service history. Original boxes, papers, receipts and service records can help establish identity and support the appraisal, but their presence does not by itself determine the value. A valuation is not the same as a full watch service, authentication guarantee or mechanical performance test; further examination may be advised where the watch is unusual, damaged or potentially modified.

Some items need more time or specialist equipment than a standard valuation-day appointment allows. This may apply to substantial gemstone jewellery, rare signed pieces, complicated watches, collections, items with disputed ownership, or jewellery requiring laboratory testing. A valuer may provide an initial opinion, recommend a formal written report or arrange additional examination. It is sensible to mention unusual or high-value items when making the appointment rather than assuming every piece can be completed during the event.

Bring any information that may help identify the item and establish its history, such as previous valuations, purchase receipts, insurance documents, laboratory reports, watch papers, service invoices, original boxes and details of known makers. Keep each item secure and, where possible, bring jewellery in its original form rather than having it cleaned or altered immediately beforehand. Repairs, polishing and stone replacement can remove evidence that is useful to the valuer.

After the appraisal, ask what is included in the written documentation, which valuation basis has been used and whether the report is suitable for your insurer, solicitor, executor or other intended recipient. If an item cannot be fully assessed on the day, the report should make that limitation clear and explain what further evidence or examination is required.